A May Day bank holiday, a seaside town, freshly caught crab sandwiches…… as far as British cities go Brighton is perfect for a day out. But when the water drops hit your head instead of washing over your toes, the view is certainly less picturesque to say the least.On the south coast of Britain, Brighton prides itself on its rich culture, quaint setting and liberal gay scene. But the town is steeped in history and has been a popular resort since the opening of its railway in the 18th century.
As the heavens opened we ran towards the famous Brighton Pier, in search of shelter, maybe in the form of an arcade or souvenir shop but instead we stumbled across the Brighton Fishing Museum. Free entry and the promise of warmth, we were sold.
The museum is situated in the fishing quarter of the town centre; right on the seafront where Brighton’s fishing industry is still very active today. Entering the museum foyer we were met by a 27-foot clinker built punt boat. Punt boats were traditionally used on flat water but with its calm coastline these boats were a cheap alternative to other
fishing methods in the 18th century.
The museum contains photographs and artefacts of Brighthelmstone during the 1700s, when patients were first prescribed the seawater at Brighton for its medicinal benefits. There’s an array of multi media shows for tourists to watch and learn from but its But towards the back of the Museum local artists display their work for visitors to purchase and the light airy space provides a perfect setting for ‘seaside art’.
But the museum is only the start of the Fishing quarter. Brighton prides itself on its green eco status. In the upcoming election, ‘bookie stats’ are predicting a green victory and the party are constantly pushing for a more eco, liberal Brighton, thoroughly supporting the gay community. But as the weather began to subside we ventured out to look. Or should I say taste the wares of the local fishmongers. I was pleasantly surprised at the thriving independent fishing trade on the sea front, stalls selling fresh mackerel, crab and oysters. Local fish mongers are smoking fish and selling freshly caught crab sandwiches for guests 7 days a week and even better, everything is locally sourced. It’s one of the only cottage industries left in the city and it provides a traditional culinary experience for fish lovers. But the highlight for me has to be Jack and Linda’s Mills traditional fish smokers. The concoction of seaside air and smoked mackerel flowing through my nostrils was enough to make my belly gurgle. As seagulls dived for chips in ice-cream cones we paced towards the building. All the shops are framed with an arch, and as we got closer I could read the authentic wooden signs, announcing the days catch. I’m assuming it was Jack who first appeared from underneath the counter. Wearing a straw hat and a white striped apron he was dressed for the job and very much looked the part. I asked him what they had available and he immediately pointed to the blackboard on the wall. The shop was quite dingy but the authenticity was more than alluring. I had assumed that they smoked the fish somewhere out the back, a lack of education I suppose. But Jack led me outside and pointed towards the sea, “under the sea” I questioned. Jack was actually pointing to the tiny little black smokehouse across the boardwalk.
When they moved into the archway 11 years ago Jack and Linda built the smoke house. “Every other day we stock up the house with apple wood and oak, rub the fish in salt and smoke it ready for the next days orders” Jack explained. Unfortunately I couldn’t see any smoke coming out of the bottom; maybe smoking fish and rain are a bad combination I wondered. “You wait till the summer,” Jack said. “Linda mans the shop and I set up a grill just outside and grill fresh mackerel straight from the ocean, it’s a real treat”. But unfortunately, the busy bank holiday weekend had dried up all the crab and there was nothing ready for us to get our claws into. So we settled for a fillet of smoked mackerel to take home. But Jack did mention a trendy fish restaurant just around the corner, aptly named ‘Fishy Fishy’ so we headed in that direction.
The restaurant is co-owned by television presenter Dermot O’Leary, so we were hoping to find the x-factor in the form of seaside fish and chips. The restaurant inside was very plain. Blue and white with simple furniture and lots of seaside prints on the walls, but the staff were polite and the menu fairly priced so we were happy. Our cod and chips arrived; well what we thought was cod and chips. In our haste to get food in our bellies we had ordered Fishy fishy fish and chips without even looking at the menu. It was actually Pollack and plaice, deep-fried and served with a homemade tartar sauce. But even so, they were splendid.
But there was a much more serious reason for Fishy Fishy’s non-cod fish and chips. Cod is not in season on the coast of Brighton, so they don’t serve it. Reading the back of the menu, the restaurant claims to be making a conscious effort to serve sustainable produce. They serve no tuna because they disagree with importing produce, and try to avoid fish that are being overstretched.
We settled our bill and began to stroll back to our car. The sun was beginning to set and the cold sea air was giving me goose bumps. I turned to take one last look at the pier and the seafront. I could just see a tiny boat on the horizon, maybe out fishing for Linda and Jacks mackerel for tomorrow’s orders.
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